Jalie 4451– Claudette Shirt and Shirtdress Pattern

As you know, Jalie just released their new pattern collection. This is the last pattern I tested from the collection.

Quick Disclosure:   I am so lucky and blessed to be a pattern tester for them. Even though I am a tester, I share only my honest opinion.  And you all know that I am very opinionated.   If I like something I love it, if I don’t like something I’m not afraid to tell you. (photos here were taken before my recent surgery and after! in the aqua).

My Measurements at the time: Upper Bust 38.5, Bust 42, smallest Waist 34, low belly 39, Hip 49

Size Used: AA for bust, grading to a BB for the low belly and CC for the hip. 

Alterations: none except grading. I made the long sleeve dress version of the pattern

Fabric Used: I used a sheet I save for testing and muslins. It is listed as 60% cotton and 40% Polyester. I would call it a normal weight woven. Not thin, not thick. It is lighter than a quilter’s cotton but heavier than a challis.  The fabric is 58” wide

Yardage used – The pattern says to use 3.25 to 4 yards for my size. I measured the sheet and I used about 3.5 yards of 58” wide. So I would say that yes, the pattern requirements are correct.

Instructions: I thought the instructions were great , as usual with Jalie. I really look at the pictures more than the wording but it is helpful in some parts to have the wording instruction. These instructions had to be great with all those buttons, collar, pockets, yokes, and sleeve plackets.

Overall fit, Thoughts, and issues: 

This one really challenged me for 2 reasons. #1 it is a looooong sew. I had to break it up into many days. #2 I have never sewn a shirt sleeve placket before.  I have sewn just a handful of other woven “proper” collars, one on my Jalie Rose 3881 (love that top) another on a McCalls 4769 Shirtdress back in 2013, and a few others. So this sew pushed me out of my comfort zone a bit.  You all know I like the fast sew, instant gratification knits.  I need to branch out and sew more woven fabric in the future here.  If I were to change anything it would be to add a little more room for my hips and rear.  I feel it is a tad snug there. I like it more without the belt. It is loose and comfortable.  I disliked things on my stomach before this surgery (having 2 other stomach surgeries in my past) but after this surgery, I really do not like things touching my stomach.

So my sheet I used to test this pattern was this “lovely” dull gray color.  Not good for my skin tone, but I like to use sheets to test woven patterns in case they need tweaking before the final, good fabric is used.  This shirtdress looked great, but the color made me feel like Inspector Gadget. So I knew I needed to change it.

I decided to try using Rit Dye More for synthetics to change the color to more me.  I dyed cotton in the past, in a bucket in the backyard, easy peasy just soaking, Miss K’s Corduroy Pants, which I guess I never shared, but they turned out well. However, dying synthetics is a whole other ballgame.  You have to use the stove, a boiling pot, and lots of constant heat forever.  1. my arm about fell off with the amount of stirring time.  2. it takes a long long freaking time in that pot. 3. it stinks. 4. it splashes everywhere.  BUT I am happy with the outcome and I was so surprised to see the brown buttons dyed a beautiful blue too!  I just don’t know if I would want to put in that work again.

For Reference, here is Inspector Gadget.

(In exciting news, I get a new serger tomorrow!!!! I’m jumping out of my skin with excitement!!! I have been on a serger hunt since my beloved 1034d crapped out on me, oh about ….. 5 or 6 or so years ago. I had it a decade and it just worked so great and I treated it poorly but it serged a ton of things for me.  Then I tried a million other sergers like a bernina, a new home, the babylock celebrate, the babylock victory, the new brother 3000 airflow.  And I just wasn’t happy with any of them!  Plus the lights now affect my epilepsy so its hard to find a serger that doesn’t.  When the light is behind the foot, the foot going up and down so fast – makes a flashing type light and I can’t deal with it  However, I am super stoked for the new one coming. No teasers from me on what it is, until I test it out. Cross your fingers for me because my husband is getting a little tired of all the machines flying thru, lol).

Happy Sewing!

Kristin