Jalie Pauline 4565 and Jalie Joanie 4459

As promised, here are my 2 Jalie Patterns Sewn and not yet posted.  The first is Jalie Pauline and the second is Jalie Joanie!

Jalie Pauline 4565 – Open-front blazer-style knit cardigan

full disclosure:  I tested this pattern.  All opinions are my own.  (Plus I am much too opinionated to not give my honest experience and impression of the pattern – so even though I tested the pattern, I would never lie about how I think it is and I am in no way forced or paid to give a review of the pattern). 

Look at that collar and lapel!! it turned out fantastic in a KNIT!! I am proud of it lol.

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My Measurements at the time: Bust 39”, Waist 33”, Hip 44”

I chose to sew View A, the shorter cardigan style and not the long duster type style.

Size Used: X for bust, grading to a Y for the waist and Z for the hip. This is common grading for me for my pear shaped body.

Alterations: ½” forward shoulder adjustment. I have to do this with every top I make.

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Fabric Used: 52” wide, 2.25 yards of Charcoal mediumweight knit. Heathered Pewter Gray Cotton/Polyester/Spandex Interlock Knit. Content Breakdown 64% Cotton/30% Polyester/6% Spandex. Stretch percentages: 40% width and 50% height. I purchased this fabric from FabricMart in June 2024 for $3.99/yard, I used 2 yards so total cost of cardigan is $7.98. 

I feel the fabric requirement amount of 2 yards listed on the pattern were spot on for my size.

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Sewing: it was really fun (sarcasm) trying to sew all layers of the collar to the neckline and facing; *make sure to baste that collar onto the top before the facing goes over it (this makes sense when you are in the thick of it, lol).

Pattern Pieces: No issues. All notches and marks matched up for me.

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Instructions: Well written and easy to follow, which is so typical of Jalie.  I have come to expect perfection with their instructions and photos – they are very consistent with this.  To be honest I was a little hesitant on how the collar would be in a knit, but it turned out perfectly due to their awesome instructions. * I see that Jalie has put a video sew-a-long tutorial up on their website for this cardigan, if you need more visual help with sewing it or just like to sew along to a video.

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Overall fit and issues: I like the length of the top. I think it hits at a perfect spot for a cardigan. I do think it is just a tad large but that could be to fit over the top of shirts. I wore it in my photos over the top of the Jalie Beatrice tank (4135), like the pattern suggests in the description. I like the length of the arms. They hit a tiny bit long when my hands are down but are perfect when I’m moving my arms or reaching. I am also wearing my Jalie Yoga pants (3022) with this outfit.

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I was confused on what interfacing to use since the pattern just listed “fusible interfacing.” Do I use my knit interfacing or just fusible interfacing?  I chose the fusible interfacing and I think it made the cardigan front facing a bit stiff. This is great for the collar but for the front part (piece F) that goes along the front to bottom hem, the facing was stiffer than the outer cardigan fabric and causes a small bit of bunching where I sewed both together in the hem (seen below). Next time I would use fusible knit interfacing on piece F so it had some stretch. But I would still want regular fusible in the collar pieces to keep it crisp looking.

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This was not my normal fast sew, lol. It was long and had a lot of sewing machine on knit sewing. I am so used to buzzing through things with my serger. I don’t find anything wrong with this, It was just a different experience for me. I love the fact that the pattern underlined the word stitch when I could use either serger or sewing machine, I think that is genius.

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Even though this type of “dressed up” cardigan is not my usual casual at home style, I will definitely wear it. It looks so sharp and I think it is a great layering piece. I saw that someone made it in sweater knit and now I want one in a cozy sweater knit too!

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Jalie Joanie 4459 

I have to say it: full disclosure:  I tested this pattern.  All opinions are my own.  (Plus I am much too opinionated to not give my honest experience and impression of the pattern – so even though I tested the pattern, I would never lie about how I think it is and I am in no way forced or paid to give a review of the pattern). 

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My measurements at the time: Upper Bust: 37.5”,  Full Bust: 41”, Waist: Smallest 34” and at lower belly: 37”, hips 47”.

Size Sewn: Y for the shoulders/ AA bust/Waist, then graded waist to BB for low belly and hip.  I used my sizes that I normally am for Jalie patterns based on my measurements

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View Sewn:  At first I made a short sleeve version of the shirt and then I later made the short sleeve version of the dress. The shirt I sewed a size BB bust/CC hip but it was so loose and big and hung funny. I always take my measurements right before cutting a pattern, but between the time I cut the pattern and sewed it a few days later I didn’t realize my measurements changed that much, due to illness) So then, when I made the dress, I made it with the shoulders based of my high bust size and graded for my bust/waist/hip – this fit so much better. Plus the fabric I used was much better for the dress. 

Date Sewn: August 15, 2024

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Pattern Stretch Required: 40% minimum width and length

I used: 70% stretch on both width and length of shirt fabric. This is a huge part of the reason the shirt didn’t fit right.  First I didn’t use my high bust measurement, causing the top to be too big on the shoulders.  And second my fabric was so stretchy with no recovery so it just hangs funny and distorts out of shape.  The shirt fabric was a terrible choice for this pattern. I used 2 mystery sweater knits that were definitely poly spandex, the light blue having rayon as well. Shirt fabric width was 58″ wide after prewashing.

On the flip side, the dress fabric had 70% stretch in the width but 30% in length.  The dress fabric I used was a super soft Waffle Knit from FabricMart. It is 100% polyester and 58W according to the label but since it has such a stretch widthwise it must have some spandex in it. It sewed up nicely, doesn’t distort at all when I am wearing it and it turned out great!

Dress Fabric: Colonial Blue/White 100% Polyester Floral Print Waffle Sweater Knit 58W, purchased from FabricMart, June 2024 for $3.99/yard.  I used the full 2 yards so this nightgown total is $7.98.

The pattern states to use 1.75 yards for the dress size, but I used 2 yards for my blended Y, AA, BB sizing. So I would say that yes, the pattern requirements were close but since I used the full 2 yards, I would suggest getting a little extra fabric just in case. The fabric requirements for the shirt were spot on.

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Instructions: I had no issues with instructions, all notches matched up for me everything was clear.  I printed off the A0 copy shop file for all sizes and just for sizes X-DD with layers. I found it all to be accurate and correct.  I thought the instructions were easy to follow. I had no issues. I have made countless T shirts and T shirt dresses over the years but I read the directions step-by-step and they all made sense. It only took me a total of 1.5 hours to resize, cut, and sew the T shirt dress! That is awesome! I love fast sews that turn out great!

Here is the disaster shirt, made with the wrong fabric choice.

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Thoughts:  The t shirt I made turned out obviously too big, but this is because I dropped 16 pounds somehow almost overnight and my measurements all decreased an inch. Pairing this with the fact that my fabric was very stretchy. Once I remeasured and resized the pattern for my measurements, the dress turned out perfect.

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Thoughts: The t-shirt was wrong size, wrong fabric. It didn’t turn out well.  But I’m not here to show you only the good, so I wanted to include the unfortunate T-shirt, lol.  The dress was the right fabric and right size and turned out awesome.  I love the dress/nightgown.

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With the dress, I love the fit. I was surprised that the ease was spot on perfect for this t-shirt dress. I was expecting it to be tighter (because Jalie tends to make most patterns with negative ease or less ease, but it turned out perfect. I think the pattern is great and I love T shirt dresses for the simplicity of just throwing them on and walking out the door or wearing them around home and still being able to answer the door. I will definitely be making lots more of these. I think your fabric choice and accessories will make the dress either feel more like a nightgown, like I made, or a dress that is casual or more dressed up.

 

Happy Sewing!

Kristin


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