Burda Style Top and Skirt (03/2017 #124 and 01/2009 #125)

Often I have spur of the moment thoughts about what I want to make. The fabric “speaks to me” or an outfit pops up in my mind – it gets stuck in my head, and I just have to make it. This outfit is one I envisioned and hoped it would come to light just as I dreamed up.

Let’s start with the skirt.

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Pattern: BurdaStyle 03/2017 #124 Maxi Skirt with Side slits

Magazine description:  “A perfect last-minute piece! The skirt with slits along both sides has a casing at the waistline and contrasting coloured cord to draw it together. It is a comfortable choice for styling with many options.  And, it works with sneakers, too.”

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Date Sewn: 08/28/2020

My measurements at the time: 31 waist, 45.5 hip

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Size used: straight 48

Alterations: I used a 69” long drawstring instead of the 74” the pattern called for. I ended up with 34” long of the 1.5” wide elastic in the waist.  I could tighten it by an inch or so next time.

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The pattern stated to add 1&5/8 “ to the hem but the skirt was so very long when I tried it on.  I ended up taking 2” off the hem and then folded up 1” and up 1” again to make the hem.  (The pattern states to turn 1” hem to the inside and then turn the edges under to half allowance width before stitching in place). So in all I took 3” total off what the magazine said for the hem length.  For reference, I am 5’7” tall.

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Instructions:  They were actually good.  I had no issue following them or understanding what was asked to sew.

Fabric: 3 yards of a precut from FabricMart.  It says 100% cotton in the description but it is clearly made with some, if not all, polyester. It made that snapping sound under my needle, frayed like crazy, and just feels like polyester.  Pattern calls for 2.5 yards of fabric and I guess that could just barely work; I used the 3 yards I had and there was very little left over.  Black/White Swallow Polka dot print sateen shirting 100% cotton, is the description. I purchased it in Feb 2019 for $4.80 TOTAL so $1.60/yard? (The dots are actually tiny birds!).

close up of “dots”

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Thoughts: This looks like such a simple skirt from the picture, but you have hip pockets, a drawstring to add, and awesome self facing slits on both sides of the skirt.  It took a bit longer to sew than I expected but it was enjoyable.  Everything came together nicely and all the pieces matched up perfectly. I would love to try to make it in a Challis like as the magazine suggests.

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I made this skirt to go with the shirt below but I don’t like how they pair up after all.  So now I need to figure out what sort of shirt to wear with this skirt. I like the skirt and I can see myself wearing it often – I especially love those slits in both sides; however, the waist is a bit too big and I don’t know where it sits best on me – lower on my hips or at my actual waist.  Here are some pics of the two together.

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And now for the top.

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Pattern: Burda 01/2009 #125 “polo shirt” (I just have to say, the magazine calls this a polo shirt, maybe because of the placket? But to me a polo shirt has to have a collar as well, this to me is a t-shirt)

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Magazine description:   “The fine jersey knit is pleasant to wear and lends this little top with polo fastening and short, puffed raglan sleeves a sporty look. And nothing can go wrong if you follow our illustrated sewing course in the sewing supplement.”

Date Sewn: 08/28/2020

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My measurements at the time: High Bust 37, bust 39, waist 31, hip 45.5

Size used: I had to do some grading out on this top.  The magazine only goes 36-42 and I am a 44 bust/waist and 48 hip in Burda.  So I graded the pattern out to the 44 bust/waist and 48 hip. It wasn’t very hard to grade out these sizes as the pattern pieces are very straight forward.

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Alterations: This pattern had you add 1.25” for the hem allowance but this shirt was crazy long on me.  I have sewn a decent amount of Burda patterns now and I don’t remember other ones being so long.  I took 2” off the hem and sewed a 1” hem.  In the future, I don’t need to add the hem allowance on this pattern.  After I was all finished it was too big in the bust so I went back and took it in from the sleeves/underarms/ through the bust and graded back out to 0 at the waist. This made the shirt sizing 42 for the sleeves/bust, 44 for the waist, and 48 for the hip.

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Instructions:  This pattern is actually the “sewing course” for this issue.  I had no problems with the instructions.  Even with the placket, everything was explained well and there are great pictures for each step.

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Fabric: At first I thought this was a wine colored double brushed poly from my stash, but it was an absolute bear to work with.  I sew with dbp all the time and have no trouble so I got really frustrated.  This fabric would not cooperate no matter what I tried.  I had to walk away from sewing this top for 2 days to settle my frustrations.  When I came back to the top, it finished up nicely.  I then looked at my fabric database and see it is a modal jersey.  It is soft and brushed like dbp, but much thinner, more fluid – refuses to hold an iron press.  I don’t think the placket lays well at the bottom because the fabric is so thin.  I love this top design, but I honestly despise this fabric.  I will remake it in a nicer jersey knit sometime.  Anyway, I used “cranberry knit activewear” modal/lycra jersey that I purchased from LDG textiles going out of business sale, in Aug 2019, for $2 for the yard.

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Thoughts: I love the design.  The gathered neck and sleeve edges make for interesting details – they make this no ordinary t-shirt.  I actually do like how the placket looks in this design too – with proper fabric. Even though I dislike this fabric, once I put the top on it was so soft and comfortable that I just didn’t take it off! I made it to go with the above skirt, but I really don’t like the two together.   I like the placket and spent the time making the button holes all proper, attaching the buttons.  And then I realized when I was all done that I didn’t need to actually open the buttons to get the shirt on or off.  So if you make this, you can just sew the buttons right down over those button holes if you wanted to save time.  The magazine says to use snaps but I didn’t have any that matched so I went with real buttons. This top will go with many of my pants and shorts in my wardrobe though so it will get lots of wear.

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I was taking my blog pictures like normal and Miss K decided to come in and make fun of me. After a bit of banter it turns out she wants to be my photographer.  So today’s pics are courtesy of Miss K. Here is my “what do you want?” pose.

Also, I dyed my hair this reddish color this month – for fall, because I was bored, and because I used to dye my hair all the time but haven’t in like 2 or 3 years.  I’m not sure if I like it or not.  I am a “cool” coloring and I think this shade might be too “warm” for me.  Oh well. It isn’t like I’m going anywhere!

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Thanks for reading!

Kristin

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