2 pairs of pants–Greenstyle brassies and Burda 11/2007 #122

Let’s start with the easy ones – They turned out almost perfect and are heavenly to wear.

Pattern: Burda 11/2007 #122


Sewn before in Purple space dye and red yoga knit


Date Sewn: July-Aug 2020

My measurements at the time: Waist 32/Hip 46.5

Size used: Waistband 42; Front Piece: 42 waist, 44 hip to hem; Back Piece: 42 waist, graded to 46 at hip to knee and back to 44 the rest of the way to hem. I added 1.5” for the hem like the magazine stated and actually did the 1.5 chunky hem (it’s awesome, I love long pants and a chunky hem).


Alterations: I scooped the butt curve about 1/2 inch. I changed this pair to an enclosed elastic waist instead of a fold over yoga waist. I feel like it was too hard to keep the French terry from sliding down on this fabric with the yoga band. I used 1.5” elastic and it works great.

Instructions: For Burda, these are good instructions.  However, the pattern is also simple to sew up and not too much to mess up.


Fabric: A super soft, perfectly weighted gray French terry.  This fabric is amazing.  I think I picked it up at Walmart in one of those $4 for 2 yards rolls that they have now. I can’t remember exactly though. I used 2 yards.

(picture below is where I wear them comfortably.  They are just a tiny bit wrinkled in the inner thigh there)


(and this picture below is when I pull the waist down about 1/2” to 1” to sit even on my hips. Darn near perfect!)


Thoughts: Wow. I loved my purple pair of these pants until I painted in them and ruined them.  I still love and wear my red yoga pants in this pattern all the time.  Now I have these gray ones and they are the stuff dreams are made of.  They fit well, almost perfectly.  They are so soft and comfortable to wear; they don’t attract dog hair or fuzzies.  I don’t want to ever take them off!!  In fact, I’ve worn them the past 2 days now! I love everything about them.


Pattern: Greenstyle Brassies


Date Sewn: I’ve been really good about writing down the dates when I sew stuff but I forgot to on these.  I think I started them at least 6 months ago. Then there were too many adjustments so I just stopped sewing them.


My measurements at the time: Waist 32.5, Hip 47.5

Size used: 3xl hip to 2xl waist and 4xl calf. These are midrise in height, no leg cuffs. My hip was just barely out of the 2XL size and not quite the 3XL size but because of my large rear I chose to sew the larger size of 3XL hip.  Since I wear my pants waists lower than waist level I choose to make a 2XL waist even though my actual waist measures in a size between L and XL.  In hindsight I have zero idea why I chose to make the waist a 2xl since I usually have to size down 2 in the waist. Also, I have big calves that are hyper-extended so I chose the 4xl size by measuring the pattern with my calf measurement.


Alterations: I had to do a ton of alterations to these, more than I think I have ever done on any pattern before.

  • 3/8” extended at back thigh with back crotch curve
  • 1/2” scooped butt and then scooped another 3/4”!!
  • 1” taken in for sway back and center back
  • 1/2” added to top of back waist at outer hip
  • 1” added to back butt rise at center back hip level sloped to 1/2” at side hip back (a slash and spread for more crotch length)
  • 3/8” added to inner thigh with front crotch curve
  • 1/4” scooped at front crotch – then scooped 1/2” more!
  • then I had to take 1/4” off from hip out seam down to knee, tapering in to 0 at waist and calf. (initially I added 1/4” here but then had to take off 1/2” making it 1/4” in the end)

Fabric:  A black French terry. I used 2 yards; I purchased this 100% cotton French terry from Stylishfabric in July 2017 for $6.90/yard.  It’s a decent French terry I would call medium weight.


Thoughts: I’m ok with how they turned out, but I feel I had to do so many alterations for my shape that it was exhausting.  I’ll wear them awhile to see how they fit. I do like the pockets and how they are sewn down so there is no floppy pocket bag.  The front crotch still has some weirdness going on – it feels too long and I’m not sure if the pattern is intended for a dropped crotch or if my rise is just too long.So they are just ok and not something I love.

(picture below is where I wear them comfortably.  They are wrinkled in the inner thigh there)


(and this picture below is when I pull the waist down about 1/2” to 1” to sit even on my hips. Better looking than the above but with loose back thighs now)


Looking at these pictures, I’m thinking that some of my back under butt wrinkles are because I don’t have enough length for my butt (not enough rise). By pulling the pants down and allowing my butt to have the right length most the wrinkles disappear.  I think I will experiment with adding to the rise of the front and back by 1” but then sloping the front down to my comfort spot of way low rise. That will add the length to the back all across (instead of my slash and spread angle I do just at middle of center back curve).

Pants shown with my Ottobre 02/2007 #1 tank top

Thanks for reading!



  1. I think your plan to adjust the rise is a good idea! Throughout all of the pant fitting blogs and books and videos I’ve seen/read, it took someone reiterating “putting the fabric where you need it” for it to click. Adding to the rise at the top vs a wedge vs the scoop vs the crotch hook all do something slightly different.

    They both look super comfortable and cozy!!


    • Thanks Nakisha! I’m happy to finally be able to be working out some of these fitting issues. I think everyone’s pants fitting journey is unique to their bodies, which makes it a challenge to say “hey do this to fix that.” And you are so right, the wedge/scoop/hook/rise adjustments all do different things!


  2. […] Any of the 3 pairs of pants that I made this year that fit amazing.  I am so proud that I was finally able to get a decent pant fit.  I worked extremely hard researching and testing different alterations.  I was relieved and happy when I seemed to finally crack the code on my lower half fittings. (McCalls M7061 in red, Burda 11/2007 #122 in gray and Greenstyle Brassies in Black) […]


  3. […] Thoughts: Well, I made them in 2017, and they were never blogged and never worn. I didn’t even finish hemming them. My notes say that I need less hip curve and more waistband length. Honestly I think this was a case of poor fabric choice for this pattern. The fabric is a coral cotton lycra that is pretty heavyweight and doesn’t stretch as far as normal C/L. It squishes and compresses instead of being comfortable. If I made these out of a different fabric I am sure they would be a lot better. This pair? Wadder, thrown in the trash after these pictures. I’ve held onto them long enough. They aren’t getting any better as they age.  Plus, as with the pegs above, I’ve got other jogger patterns that I made and really love Ottobre, Burda, and even Greenstyle Brassies.  […]


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